Fruit acids, as the name suggests, are organic acids extracted from fruits and are active ingredients found in a variety of natural fruits or yogurts. 1993 Time Magazine listed fruit acids as one of the top 10 products. Today, fruit acids have become an indispensable tool for dermatologists worldwide to treat acne, acne marks, pigmentation, fine wrinkles, and skin rejuvenation. The dermatology department of the First Affiliated Hospital of the PLA General Hospital has achieved satisfactory results with this treatment. The scientific and objective answers of professional cosmetic physicians and the exquisite techniques of cosmetic technicians are highly praised by patients, and the elegant and comfortable environment of the dermatology beauty room makes beauty seekers feel at home.
Qiu Meng, Department of Dermatology, The First Affiliated Hospital of Chinese People’s Liberation Army General Hospital
The full name of Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) is Alpha Hydroxy Acid, and its abbreviation is AHA, because it mainly comes from fruits, so it is referred to as fruit acid. Fruit acids are widely found in apples, lemons, sugar cane, and yogurt, and they are natural organic acids. The common ones are citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, ethyl pyruvic acid, hydroxyglycolic acid, 3hydroxybutyric acid, methyl pyruvic acid, ethylhydroxyisobutyric acid, pyruvic acid and hydroxymalonic acid.
In the early 1970s it was found that low concentrations of fruit acids (3-6%) could have the effect of reducing the adhesion of keratin-forming cells. Topical application of fruit acids to the skin has no toxic side effects on the whole body. High concentrations of fruit acids (70~80%) have a dissociative effect on the epidermis (epidermal peeling). People take advantage of his special function and widely used in skin diseases that hinder beauty (such as ichthyosis) and actinic keratosis. It is also used for epidermal peeling of pigmented spots and age spots.
Fruit acid beauty principle
1.Fruit acid products can reduce the bridging particle connection of skin keratin and promote the metabolism of skin. Regulate the skin keratinization process and make the skin keratinization normal. Make the keratinized plugs around the pores easy to fall off, and unblock the hair follicle tube, effectively prevent pore blockage. At the same time, the excessive accumulation of dead skin cells will separate and fall off naturally, making the skin appear smooth and soft, improving dull complexion and enlarged pores, reducing the blockage of the hair follicle opening, and treating acne.
2.Activate epidermal renewal and speed up metabolism. Some aging stratum corneum is peeled off and new epidermal cells grow out again, restoring the skin to a more youthful state.
3, topical fruit acid preparations can make the mast cells in the skin degranulation, mast cell degranulation release medium has stimulated dermal fibroblasts, so that the number of collagen and elastic fibers increase, while fruit acid also increases the content of mucopolysaccharide and hyaluronic acid in the dermis, promoting dermal reconstruction and rearrangement of collagen fibers, thus increasing skin elasticity and fullness, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, etc.
4.Fruit acid preparation is a good moisturizer, which can nourish and moisturize the skin. Fruit acid molecules contain hydrophilic groups that can combine with water molecules, which can make the cells in all layers of the epidermis contain sufficient amount of water, making the skin appear hydrated, delicate and supple.
5, the second generation of fruit acid PHA and the third generation of fruit acid Bionic Acid have antioxidant effect, which can promote epithelial formation, cell regeneration and repair, and enhance the function of skin barrier; especially the antioxidant function of the third generation of fruit acid is used in certain oral preparations and the preservation solution of transplanted organs, and its antioxidant effect can remove early wrinkles and age spots, and can also correct mild skin atrophy.
Indications for fruit acid skin revitalization
1, acne, post-acne acne marks : The first generation of fruit acids (20%-70% glycolic acid) has significant efficacy on acne.
2.Improve skin texture, reduce superficial fine lines, lighten pigmentation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
3, skin keratinization abnormalities such as ichthyosis, periorbicular keratosis, etc.
4, delay and improve various skin aging symptoms, such as dull skin tone, rough skin, wrinkles, fine lines, large pores, sagging, etc.
5.Pre-operative skin preparation and post-operative skin repair for various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. In the United States, Taiwan and Japan, fruit acids are also used in combination with other cosmetic procedures such as non-invasive laser, microdermabrasion, IPL (Intense Pulse Light), Botox/Filler (to plump up the skin and improve the power of fine lines and wrinkles) to achieve the best clinical results.
Advantages of fruit acid skin revitalization
1.Can treat a variety of poor skin conditions, such as acne, pigmentation, uneven skin tone
2.It has the value of treatment and daily skin care
3.The reaction can be controlled and predictable
4, Non-toxic, safe and effective
5, Any skin type can be used
6.Short and convenient recovery period, known as “lunchtime beauty”
7.Reasonable price
Operation procedure of fruit acid skin revitalization
1 Clean face first, about 3 minutes
2 Protect sensitive areas with petroleum jelly (around the eyes, nasolabial folds, etc.), and cover eyes with protective cotton, about 2 minutes
3 Apply fruit acid solution, about 3-5 minutes
4 Apply neutralizing solution to neutralize, about 1 minute
5 Apply ice pack, about 3 minutes
6 Moisturizing and sunscreen treatment, about 2 minutes
Precautions before the treatment of fruit acid beauty.
1.Do your best to protect yourself from the sun (SPF15 ~SPF20) and avoid exposure to the sun.
2, one week before treatment, should stop the following behavior: facial beauty or skin care, use scrub, perm and hair coloring, use A acid products on the face, shaving and hair removal with a blade, excessive swimming, sunburn face
Precautions to take after fruit acid cosmetic treatment.
1, gently wash the face (do not use sponge or towel to wipe hard, so as not to stimulate the treatment area)
2, do a good job of moisturizing sunscreen work
3, in order to avoid scarring, please do not use the blade to brace hair, peel off the scab or scratch the skin, compress the face, etc.
4. Please start using the usual maintenance products and cosmetics after the skin has recovered.
One to two weeks before the peel, you should start using a fruit acid maintenance cream (or lotion, or gel), and use it once at night after washing your face, so that your face skin can adapt to the fruit acid. Ask your physician which product to use.
For dark spots, use a sunscreen lotion (SPF 15 or higher) every morning to avoid sun damage, and again at noon in the sun.
The acidity (pH) of fruit acids determines their effect on the skin and their ability to change the acidity of the skin. The ideal acidity of fruit acids is between 2.8 and 4.8, which is most effective for the renewal of the epidermis. Within a few days after the peel, the face may feel tingly, red and even crusty. The higher the concentration used, the more likely it is that you will experience discomfort. It is important that you inform your physician if you are still required to work after the peel and the number of days you can rest at home so that your physician can decide on the concentration of acid to be used and the duration of the peel. Peels are a fairly safe procedure with only a few possible side effects. After your peel, it will take about a few days to a week for your skin to fully recover. During this recovery period, you may experience the following symptoms: mild irritation, itching, burning sensation, mild pain, tightness on the face, peeling or slight scarring. These symptoms will slowly disappear over time (within about a week) until they return to normal. If there is skin swelling, please apply ice for 24-48 hours after the peel.
Number and interval of fruit acid cosmetic treatments.
Fruit acid peels generally need to be done anywhere from 4-6 times. The interval between each peel depends on the individual’s skin type and the concentration of fruit acids used in the previous peel, ranging from about 2 to 6 weeks.