Introduction: Since the 1990s, dermatological beauty experts have used fruit acids for skin beauty care, producing excellent skin repair effects, and gradually being respected by the international beauty industry, rapidly triggering the fruit acid skin care craze.
I. Concept
Fruit acids (alphahydroxyacids, AHAs), both alpha-hydroxy acids, are a class of non-toxic substances and related compounds that exist in nature, mainly from various fruits, so commonly known as fruit acids.
It was first discovered in 1974 by Dr. VanScott, the “father of fruit acids” and Dr. RueyYu, a pharmacologist, that different concentrations of fruit acids have different cosmetic and therapeutic effects.
Glycolic acid (Glycolic acid)
*The smallest molecular weight fruit acid
*High affinity to skin
*Easily penetrates into the skin to produce effects
*It is the most commonly used fruit acid for skin revitalization treatment.
In the past 10 years, it has been found that fruit acids (the main component is glycolic acid) in fruits do not cause allergic reactions and have no significant side effects with long-term use, so they have now become the main peeling agent component. Fruit acid skin revitalization treatment is widely used.
Second, fruit acid mechanism of action
Epidermal effect–improvement effect on epidermis
>Reducing the adhesion of keratin-forming cells: promoting the shedding of aging keratin layer
>Promote skin metabolism: promote skin renewal and rejuvenation
>corrects abnormal keratinization of the hair follicle duct opening and removes excessive accumulation of keratinocytes: normalizes the keratinization process and prevents pore blockage
>Normalizes the cellular structure of the epidermis: improves
Dermal effect – improvement of the dermis
>Stimulates the proliferation and rearrangement of mucopolysaccharide, collagen and elastic fibers: promotes skin firmness and increases elasticity.
>Increases hyaluronic acid content in the dermis: acts as a moisturizer
>Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
Pigmentation effect
>Improves excessive accumulation of keratinocytes: brightens skin tone
>Boosts skin metabolism and accelerates melanocyte shedding: brightens skin tone and lightens pigmentation
>Eliminate photoaging effect: improve skin tone, lighten spots and brighten skin
Three, different concentrations of fruit acids have different effects
*<8%.
Can be used as cosmetics
It can make the skin bright, soft and remove fine wrinkles.
*20%-70%.
Can be used for chemical peeling (chemical peeling)
Treatment of acne, periorbital keratosis, chloasma, skin amyloidosis, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, photoaging diseases, etc.
The higher the concentration, the more significant the effect, the greater the relative side effects
Classification of chemical peels
* Superficial peels: deepest to the dermal papillary layer.
AHA, TCA (15-30%)
*Medium peel: can reach the upper dermal reticular layer.
50% TCA, 70% glycolic acid stay for 15 minutes can reach the upper dermal reticular layer
*Deep peel: reaches the middle of the dermal reticular layer.
Petrocarbonic acid (has been replaced by laser peeling)
IV. Indications for fruit acids
Acne: Type I and II acne; post-acne depressed scars
Pigmentation: pigmented chloasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, dull skin tone
Photoaging: Improvement of fine lines, roughness, enlarged pores
Keratinization: periorbital keratinization, seborrheic keratinization
Other: auxiliary treatment of ichthyosis, skin amyloidosis, melanosis, etc.
V. Advantages of fruit acid peeling
Fruit acid is milder than traditional chemical peeling and no pigment disorder will occur after healing
Since fruit acids are natural organic acids from fruits, no toxic side effects occur even when used at high concentrations of 70%.
Fruit acid peeling is a gradual process from low concentration to high concentration, replacing one violent peel with several gentle peels, so it can be performed on an outpatient basis without the need for hospitalization.
VI. Contraindications to fruit acid peels (relative)
>Sensitive skin
>Now in the physiological period or the period is coming
>Perming/hair coloring within one week, hair removal in the operation area
>Someone who has been exposed to the sun or not enough protection from the sun within a week (e.g. beach vacation)
>Exfoliation of the surgical area within half a month
>Practice area grinding, laser, cryotherapy within one month
>Sunburn in the area within one month
>Any radiotherapy, dental X-ray within one month
>Internal photosensitizing medication in January
>Wounds or active bacterial or viral infections in the surgical area
>Pregnant women
>Patients with a history of hypertrophic scars or scars
>Caution for those taking oral retinoids
7. Precautions after fruit acid skin resurfacing surgery
>Avoid makeup products within 24 hours after treatment.
>After 1 to 2 days of peeling, there will be mild local redness and pain; after 3 to 7 days, there may be scabbing or flaking, so let the scab fall off naturally.
>No hot springs or saunas for 7 days after surgery to avoid facial redness.
>Use sunscreen after surgery, reapply sunscreen at 4-hour intervals indoors during the day; reapply sunscreen at 2-hour intervals outdoors during the day to reduce the occurrence of UV-induced hyperpigmentation.
>Moisturizing care of the peeling area is very important, so medical skin care products should be used after fruit acid treatment to reduce skin irritation and promote skin regeneration and repair.
>The interval between fruit acid treatments is generally 15-20 days. Follow the doctor’s instructions and follow a course of treatment for excellent results, four times a