Which one is effective, which one is stimulating, which one is safe, which one is unscrupulous? Here is a summary of the principles and characteristics of common (not all) whitening ingredients, I hope it will help you in your whitening plan.
A, the most classic: vitamin C and derivatives
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid, the most effective is its left-form dextrorphan structure, also known as L-ascorbic acid), internal and external use have whitening effect.
Principle: Inhibit melanin synthesis, restore melanin, improve skin tone by enhancing collagen content, reduce vascular permeability to reduce inflammation, so it also has good effect on inflammation and red blood type pigmentation.
Safety: Generally safe, but high concentration will have some irritation.
Effectiveness: Effective
Disadvantages: Not stable enough, easily oxidized and decomposed by light damage.
Synonyms: VC derivatives, they are milder and more stable, common ones are VC ethyl ether, magnesium/sodium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP,
SAP), ascorbyl glucoside (AA2G), ascorbyl palmitate (AP);
Second, the most capable: whole soybean extract
Whole soybean extract is almost all-powerful, whether it is for whitening, or overall skin improvement, it is extremely good, and has no irritation, and is suitable for any type of skin.
Principle: Inhibit melanin synthesis, reduce melanocyte size, improve skin texture, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, promote dermal collagen increase, enhance hyaluronic acid synthesis, repair barrier function;
Safety: Completely safe, no record of irritation;
Effectiveness: Effective
Disadvantages: currently less applied, the applied soy ingredients are generally not whole soy extracts. Daily life is not easy to obtain, easily destroyed by heat damage ;
Third, the most twists and turns: tretinoin
In 1988, Japan became the world’s first country to approve its addition to cosmetics, 16 years later, due to possible carcinogenic risks, and became the first country to ban it. 2005 additional tests were conducted after the ban was lifted.
Formerly extracted from Aspergillus, etc., tric acid can now be synthesized. There is a certain irritation, but also may weaken the skin barrier, sensitive skin to be used with caution (azelaic acid, that is, Dujuanic acid, also more irritating).
Fourth, the most basic: sun protection
UV, visible light in part and near infrared can lead to increased melanin, so sun protection is the basis of all whitening work. And hard sunscreen is the foundation of the foundation, has written the “truth about sunscreen”, here will not be detailed.
Five, the most entangled: fruit acids
Fruit acid as a keratin exfoliator, can quickly make keratinocyte shedding, melanin exists inside the keratinocyte, together with shedding, so as to achieve the purpose of improving skin tone, commonly used is glycolic acid (glycolic acid, GlycolicAcid). Also fruit acids can promote dermal collagen synthesis, making the skin more hydrated and glowing. However, it will make the stratum corneum thinner, the skin more sensitive to light, there is a certain degree of irritation, not everyone is tolerant. Want to quickly white can choose.
Six, the most dangerous: aminomercuric chloride
Amino mercury chloride, also known as white drop mercury, belongs to the banned substances, so only in the fast-acting, illegal whitening, spot removal products. According to the survey, the hardest hit areas are X Bao, rural, urban and rural trade markets. This problem does not exist in the regular products.
Mercury agent is toxic, entering the skin and fat combined with the formation of difficult to remove the black material, leading outside the more serious spots, the amount of mercury will also form the accumulation of mercury poisoning, the nerves, internal organs are very toxic. Therefore, you must not believe in quick-acting whitening and spot removal products, which is the most important way to avoid using to mercury poisoning products!
Hydroquinone, chemically known as hydroquinone, is an effective skin whitening agent and is also used as a reducing agent and developer in photography. If an adult accidentally takes 1g, he or she will experience headache, dizziness, nausea, vomiting and other poisoning symptoms. It is carcinogenic and mutagenic. Long-term use can also cause exogenous leukoplakia and browning disease, and can be toxic to many systems and organs. The European Union, the country of Nigeria, China are prohibited to add in cosmetics (so you can not see its name in the list of ingredients of the product, prohibited additions will not be written), the country of rice is permitted to add 2% in the OTC, prescription drugs up to 10%, China is only permitted to use in the artificial nail system.
Seven, the most commonly used: arbutin
Alpha-arbutin is more effective and stable, limited to 7% or less, generally at 3% or so, it can inhibit melanocyte activity and reduce melanin production. It can inhibit melanocyte activity and reduce melanin production. The effect is milder and less irritating, but there are occasional adverse reactions. Overall, it is safe and effective.
Vitamin B3 or niacinamide, nicknamed “anti-melanin”, has the effect of inhibiting the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes, in addition to a variety of improvement effects, a test shows: external application of 2% niacinamide for 8 weeks, sebum reduced by 23%, pore size reduced by 9%, collagen increased significantly, skin barrier enhanced and non-irritating, nature Stable and easy to group, in improving the appearance of the skin, compared with retinoic acid has significant advantages.
Eight, the most promising: a variety of plant extracts
A very large variety, usually containing polyphenol flavonoids, such as tea polyphenols, grape seed extract, ellagic acid (persimmon leaf extract), mulberry bark extract, angelica, scutellaria, orange peel citrus, maitake, etc..
The common feature is that they are mild, but because of the complexity of the ingredients, there are occasional allergic or irritating reactions. They are generally stable and have various functions such as antioxidant and promoting dermal collagen synthesis, so they can be used for anti-aging and anti-glycation at the same time.
At present, the plant is a hot spot for research, but in general the research is not deep enough, a number of components are still limited to in vitro testing, clinical research on human remains to be in-depth, but there is no doubt that they are renewable, available is very available, the potential is great, so it is the most promising.
Nine, the most expensive: licorice extracts, especially light glycyrrhizin
Light glycyrrhizin is the active substance extracted from light fruit licorice, its ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity is 16 times higher than hydroquinone, mulberry bark extract is about 13 times higher than hydroquinone, and no toxicity. The price of pure Glycyrrhiza glabra is about the same as gold (it was more expensive than gold when the price of gold did not rise in the previous years). The extraction rate of halo-glycyrrhizine is low and limited to specific licorice species. If there are products to add light licorice and the product slightly yellow, it is simply a product of conscience, this love is comparable to mother’s love!
Ten, the most unscrupulous: fluorescent agents and masking agents
Added in the mask, causing the effect of false white, immediately after using the look white, advertising blowing up to the gods, so as to sell good big price, in fact, in addition to the point moisturizer at all, there is no effect of improving skin color. After using two or three days, a wash, back to the original shape.
Covering agent can also be washed off, usually with a white powder: titanium dioxide. It is not harmful and has no nutrition, it is just very white. Adding in the mask is very unkind (unless it is for the need of the visual effect of the product itself, not to let it remain on the skin to cause a false white effect), which is different from adding in sunscreen, foundation type residual products, at least in the residual products it can also play a role in sun protection.
There are even added fluorescent agents (I have tested, not here to repeat), can penetrate the skin inside, although the lack of harmful research, but it is not the body itself should have something. Taiwan is prohibited to add migratory fluorescent substances to skin care products (i.e.: not transferable from skin care products to the skin), the domestic regulations have not yet, but I believe that sooner or later will be stipulated.